Joe Simpson mountaineer and writer describing his fall on the descent of the Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes
'We'd just climbed the west face by a very hard new route and, um, on the descent of the north ridge I was trying to downclimb a short, vertical ice cliff and, uh, the ice basically shattered and I fell about 15ft. But the impact drove my lower leg — my tibia — straight up through my knee joint, um, split straight through the tibia and it also broke my ankle, but I didn't notice that. And this was at about 20,000ft plus, and there's no rescue there, there's no helicopters, we didn't have any radios, and we were just in seriously deep trouble.'
The story of his survival is the basis for the book and feature film 'Touching the Void'